My front load washer is not draining or spinning out loads. My loads are very wet
Is the Delicate or Hand Washables cycle selected?
Your washer is designed so that in certain cycles, such as Delicate or Hand Washables cycles, the spin speeds are slower. In these cycles, more water is retained in the load at the end of the cycle to keep delicate fabrics from shrinking and wrinkling. Select the appropriate cycle based on the fabric being washed.
Was an extra low, low or no spin option selected?
Select the highest spin speed for the fabric being washed. If extra low spin or no spin was selected, the washer may not remove enough water from the load.
Were you washing one bulky item, such as a rug or large blanket?
Consider adding more items to help balance the load during spin. Your washer is designed to detect an unbalanced load and automatically lower the spin speed. Unbalanced conditions are more likely to occur with a single, bulky item.
Are excessive suds present?
Use only HE High Efficiency detergent. Using non-HE detergent or more than the manufacturer's recommended amount of detergent can cause excessive suds. The excess suds can cause the washer to run at a reduced spin speed, which will result in very wet loads.
Is the drain hose kinked or is the drain clogged?
Make sure the drain hose is not kinked. Straighten the hose for adequate water flow. Remove any blockage from the drainpipe or utility sink. Use the U-shaped drain hose form on the drain hose, and secure the drain hose.
Is the end of the drain hose more than 96" (244 cm) above the floor?
The drainpipe (standpipe) height requirements are: 96" (244 cm) maximum and 30" (76.2 cm) minimum. Your washer will not be able to adequately pump the water out of the washer if the drainpipe (standpipe) exceeds 96" (244 cm). In this case, the water may flow back into the washer.
Is your outlet voltage low?
Check electrical source or call an electrician.
Why do I have a strange odor and mildew inside my washer?
- Odor-causing residues and mold and mildew stains have the potential to accumulate anywhere moisture is present. Non HE High Efficiency detergents used in an HE washer, body oils, grime, soap, and water can cause residue and mold and mildew stains to accumulate behind the drum of the washer. If not properly cleaned on a regular basis, all HE washing machines have the potential for odor-causing residue buildup and mold and mildew stains.
- Washer odors are usually caused by leaving the washer lid closed when not in use. This does not allow air to circulate and dry out the moisture remaining in tub area. The air and moisture mixture becomes stagnant and creates an odor. When washer is not in use, leaving the lid up/open for air circulation will help prevent odor.
My top-load washer fills slowly
Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on?
Turn on the water. Check the household faucets to see if the hot and cold water faucets are turned on. Completely open both faucets for proper fill. Both hot and cold water must be connected to the washer and turned on. The washer will not properly operate with only one incoming source of water.
Is the water inlet hose kinked?
Straighten the water inlet hoses.
Are the water inlet valve screens on the washer clogged?
Turn off the water and remove inlet hoses from the inlet valve in the back of the washer. Inside the inlet valve are screens. Remove any accumulated film or particles from the screens. Reinstall hoses, turn on water, and check for leaks.
Does the water level seem too low?
The upper part of the agitator extends above the highest water level. This is normal. At the beginning of a wash, there may be load items that are not in the wash water. The section of agitator above the water level helps push the load into the water.
My top-load washer will not fill or start
Is the power cord plugged into a grounded 3 prong outlet?
Plug power cord into a grounded 3 prong outlet. Be sure NOT to use an extension cord.
Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped?
Check to see if a household circuit breaker or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt (GFCI) outlet has tripped. If so, reset the circuit breaker or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt. If the washer is on a fuse box, check to see if a fuse has blown and replace it, if necessary. If the problem continues, call an electrician.
Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on?
Turn on the water. Check the household faucets to see if the hot and/or cold water is shut off. If so, completely open them for proper fill. NOTE: Both hot and cold water must be connected to the washer and turned on. The washer will not properly operate with only one incoming source of water.
Is the water inlet hose kinked?
Straighten the hoses.
Are the water inlet valve screens on the washer clogged?
Turn off the water and remove the inlet hoses from the washer. Remove any accumulated film or particles from the water inlet valve screens. Reinstall the hoses, turn on water, and check for leaks.
Is the timer knob in the off position?
Make sure the timer knob pointer is lined up with a cycle selection and the knob is pulled out. The washer may not start if the pointer is too close to an Off position. Push in the timer knob. Slightly move the timer knob clockwise, and then pull out the knob. The washer will not start if the timer is not in the correct position.
Is the timer knob pushed in?
Pull out the knob to start the washer. If the lid was opened after the cycle started, the lid may have pushed in the knob. Make sure the knob is pulled out.
Is the lid open?
Your previous washer may have filled and washed with the lid open. Newer washers will not fill or wash with the lid open. The lid must be closed for the washer to fill with water, wash, drain, rinse and spin the load. Close the washer lid before starting the washer.
What do I do if my water temperature is too hot or too cold?
- Check to ensure both hot and cold water supply valves are turned on.
- Check to ensure the hose connections were not reversed. Typically, the hoses are marked with letters "H" for hot and "C" for cold.
- Check to ensure the proper temperature setting was selected.
- Check the household water heater to make sure it is delivering water at 90-110 degrees F. Hot wash water is the house hot water supply, when it reaches the washer.
- Warm is the mix of hot and cold water coming into the washer and can change depending on the incoming water temperatures to the washer.
Starting with 1995 and newer models washers, the warm water temperature is slightly lower than on previous models. This is due to a different mix of hot and cold water. This was done to meet federal energy guidelines. The biggest cost of energy for a clothes washer is the cost of heating the water, so slight changes reducing the amount of hot water result in energy savings without reducing wash performance. - Cold depends on the incoming supply and can vary from near freezing in some areas in the winter to about 80 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer.
Note: The effectiveness of detergent is seriously diminished in extremely low water temperatures (below 60 degrees F, 15.6 degrees C). During the winter, incoming water temperatures are lower and the resulting warm water temperatures are lower as well. - Check the water valve screen for a clog. One half of the water valve can fail and only hot or cold will come into the washer. Select cold or hot temperature and if one or the other does not work the valve screen may be clogged. Note: On models that have a temperature sensor, you might hear the water valves automatically turn on and off while the temperature is being adjusted.
My front load/top load washer makes sounds when it drains. Is this normal?
Is there a tapping sound in drain or spin?
The drain hose or water inlet hoses may be knocking against the rear of the washer cabinet. Secure the hoses using the beaded strap supplied with the washer (on some models), or use a wire tie. The vibration of the washer can be carried through to the hoses. Also, as water is pushed through the hoses, it can cause the hoses to move. If the hoses have enough space to hit the cabinet, a knocking noise will be heard.
Is there a gurgling, slurping sound while the washer is draining?
There will be some noise during the drain portion of the cycle. This is normal. During drain, the washer pump will continuously run to remove the water released from the load. Due to this continuous running, the pump will remove most of the water and then pump air. This is normal, but may cause a gurgling sound. You may hear a continuous humming sound with a periodic gurgling or surging sound. If a lower water level is used, the pump may make sounds for a longer period of time. The drain portion of the cycle usually lasts 3-5 minutes.
My front load washer makes sounds when it washes. Is this normal?
Are there items in the load that have metal buckles, snaps or zippers? Are there other loose items like coins?
Before putting your load in the washer, always check for any loose items that may tumble, clang or scrape against the washer basket. Metal buckles, snaps or zippers from clothing can also clang or scrape against the washer. Remove these items from the load and try running a cycle to see if the noise has gone away.
My top load washer makes sounds when it washes. Is this normal?
Do you hear a constant clicking sound?
The top of the agitator may make a constant clicking sound when washing small loads or when washing at low water levels. This is normal. The top of the agitator makes less sound with large loads at higher water levels.
Are there items in the load that have metal buckles, snaps or zippers? Are there other loose items like coins?
Metal buckles, snaps or zippers from clothing can clang or scrape against the washer. Before putting your load in the washer, always check for any loose items. Remove these items from the load, and try running a cycle to see if the noise has gone away.